Fuzzy red logic


When was the last time you had a lambrusco? And if you’re thinking “the 70s” you can just say “no” instead.

We got turned onto lambrusco over at the oft-mentioned palate food+wine on our first visit to their wine bar when we asked for something to pair with some charcuterie and pork rillettes. Dubious yet curious, we gave it a shot. Somewhat lacking in identifiable nose and taste components, this wine has what you can’t see in a photo – effervescence and an ability to make salami, ham, pickles, whatever, come to life.

Pour this into a champagne flute halfway and a fantastic purple foam will fill the rest of the glass, then drop back down to liquid almost immediately. It’s very dark, like ┬áconcord grape juice in color, but the flavor is much milder.

This Barbolino Lambrusco was less than $15 and worth a try if you’ve never had one.

I’m not sure what it is that makes it so interesting in combination with charcuterie, but it makes sense to try one. Just be sure to look for a real Italian one. This Barbolino comes from Modena.